Little knowledge of the history of the most complete textile style finishing technology Daquan.

1 , whitening (whitening)

The process of increasing the whiteness of textiles by using the complementary principle of light is known as whitening, also known as whitening. Bleached textiles still contain slightly yellowish substances, and bleaching will damage fibers. The use of brighteners can make up for blue and yellow, and can increase the whiteness of textiles when there is no damage to the fibers. Whitening methods are blue and fluorescent. The former applies a very light blue dye or pigment to the bleached fabric to counteract the yellow color. Due to the increased absorption of light, the brightness of the fabric will be somewhat reduced and slightly gray. The fluorescent whitening agent is an organic compound that is close to five colors. After being dyed on the fabric, it is excited by ultraviolet rays to produce blue and purple fluorescence, which complements the reflected yellow light and increases the whiteness and brightness of the fabric. The effect is better than that of blue. Fluorescent whitening can also be combined with bleaching, sizing, or crease-free finishing with the bath.

2 , Calendering (Calendering)

Calendering is a process that uses the plasticity of the fiber under hot and humid conditions to roll or flatten the surface of the fabric in parallel with a fine diagonal line to enhance the gloss of the fabric. The calender consists of several hard rolls and soft rolls with smooth surfaces. The hard roller is a metal roller, and the surface is highly polished or engraved with parallel lines, often accompanied by heating devices. Soft rolls are fiber rolls or polyamide plastic rolls. After the fabric is pressed through a combination of more and soft rollers, the yarn is flattened, the surface is smooth, the gloss is enhanced, and the hand feels stiff, which is called flat calendering. After the fabrics are pressed together by two soft rollers, the yarns are a little flatter, the luster is soft, the hand is soft, and the mine b is soft-calendered. Different luster can be obtained by using different combinations of sodium steel rollers and changes in pressure, temperature and threading method. Calender finishing is a mechanical treatment, and its fabric luster effect is poor in durability. If the fabric is first impregnated with a resin initial shrinkage body and subjected to pre-baking and stretching, a more durable luster can be obtained after calendering.

3 , embossing (embOSSing)

Using the plasticity of the fiber, a pair of hard, soft, concave, convex rolls engraved with a certain depth of pattern are used to roll the fabric at a certain temperature, so that the process of producing the embossed pattern effect is called corrugating, also called rolling. Flower arrangement. After dyeing or printing cotton or polyester/cotton blended fabric, if the resin working solution is padding in the corrugating finishing, a durable embossing effect can be formed. Synthetic fabrics can be embossed directly after dyeing and printing. The indented copper roller is used as a hard roller, and a high-elasticity rubber roller with a smooth surface is used as a soft roller to press the fabric. This is called embossing.

4 , sanding, sanding (Sanding)

The process of grinding the surface of the fabric with a sanding roller (or belt) to form a layer of short, dense piles is called sanding, also known as brushing. The brushed fabrics are thick, soft and warm, which improves the fabric's performance. After the textured yarn or high shrinkage polyester knit or machine (sweater) fabric is ground, it can be made into a suede fabric. Base fabrics made from ultra-fine synthetic fibers are obtained by embossing polyurethane emulsion and buffing to obtain synthetic suede with artificial effect. Grinding (or sanding) is similar to fluffing (or brushing) in that it produces fluff on the surface of the fabric. The difference is that the fuzzing process generally uses metal clothing (wool and spiny fruit), mainly the weft of the fabric, and the hair is long and sparse. Milling can make the warp and weft yarn produce villi at the same time, and the villi are short and dense. In order to control the strength drop of the fabric, the quality of the pile should be controlled by the shortness and uniformity of the pile.

5 , softening

During the dyeing and finishing process, textiles are subjected to various heat treatment of chemical additives and subjected to mechanical tension and the like, which often causes deformation and can cause stiff and rough touch. Soft finishing is a process that compensates for this defect and makes the fabric soft to the touch. There are two kinds of mechanical and chemical methods for softening, and mechanical methods such as rags are used to loosen the yarns or fibers to obtain a soft effect. The chemical method uses the action of a softener to reduce the coefficient of friction between fibers to obtain a softening effect. Different softeners adapt to the fibers and the resulting softening effects and effects on other properties are also different. Chemical methods are more commonly used, sometimes supplemented by mechanical methods.

6 , Starching

The process of dipping and drying the fabric to obtain a thick and stiff effect is a finishing method aimed at improving the fabric's hand. It utilizes a slurry made of a natural or synthetic high-molecular substance with a certain viscosity to form a film on the fabric so that the fabric can obtain a smooth, firm, thick, full and full hand, and increase its strength and wear resistance, thereby prolonging the service life. . Since the high-molecular substances used for finishing are generally referred to as a slurry, they are also referred to as sizing. The stiffening slurry is mainly composed of a slurry and a small amount of preservatives, and softeners, fillers or fluorescent whitening agents may also be added. According to the amount of sizing, there are light and heavy pulp. The cotton fabric is impregnated with cellulose sodium zincate slurry, and then treated with dilute acid to coagulate the cellulose on the fabric, so that a more washable and stiff imitation linen finishing effect can be obtained.

7 , weighting

Weight gain finishing is a process that uses chemical methods to add weight to silk fabrics. In the 18th century in Europe, in order to make up for the loss of weight of silk after it was refined, it has used aggravating methods to maintain commercial profits and use value. The main tasks of weight gain are tin aggravation and tannin aggravation. The proportion of silk fabric finished by tin aggravation method is increased, and the hand feels thick, smooth, rich in luster and drape, and the shrinkage after moisture absorption is reduced. B can be increased by 20% once. The repeated treatment can increase the weight by up to 100%. However, the strength, elongation and abrasion resistance of the silk fabrics after weight gaining are all reduced, and the storage is unfavorable, and it is more likely to be brittle after exposure to sunlight. If treated with soap or synthetic detergent to remove the tin salts on the attached surface after finishing, embrittlement can be reduced. The tannin weighting method is not suitable for the finishing of white and light-colored silk fabrics due to the change of tannins to black iron salts.

8 , deweighting

Weight reduction is the use of polyester hydrolysis at higher temperatures and a certain concentration of caustic solution, so that the gradual dissolution of fiber, fabric weight loss (losing weight is generally controlled at 20% to 25%), and the formation of a number of depressions in the surface, The reflected light on the surface of the fiber is diffused to form a soft luster, and at the same time, the gap of the fibers in the yarn is increased, thereby forming a process of real silk style (appearance and feel), also called reduction or alkali reduction. Polyester filament fabric after finishing, the gloss is soft, light and soft, drape performance is greatly improved, can be made of imitation Qiaoqi, double silk and other imitation silk products. The fabrics interlaced with polyester staple fibers and their blended yarns and weft filaments are flat and smooth after being finished, and similar effects can be obtained.

At present, weight reduction is mainly to reduce the weight of polyester fibers in fabrics. In fact, the partial dissolution of other fiber fabrics using appropriate chemical crystals is also a category of reduction. For example, polyester and cotton or viscose blended fabrics are treated with more than 65% cold sulfuric acid solution to completely erode the cotton or viscose, which also significantly changes the style of the product. This sort of reduction, customarily called acid reduction.

9 , Crabing (crabbing)

Cooking is a process in which a wool fabric is treated under tension with a hot water bath to make it flat and not easily deformed in the subsequent wet treatment.

It is mainly used for finishing worsted wool fabrics, after singing or washing it. In the process of wool, the fibers are subjected to various deformations due to external forces. After relaxation, shrinkage occurs, and the fibers are more pronounced when they are soaked. In the boiling hot water bath process, the molecular structure of the fiber is first destroyed and broken, and then a more stable structure is regenerated to set the fiber. Therefore, the boiled finish can make the fabric obtain a good dimensional stability, avoid deformation, wrinkles, and feel after wet processing.

10 , fulling

Finishing is the process of using wool felting to make wool fabrics dense and fluffy on the surface. It is also called shrinking. Milling can improve fabric feel and appearance, increase its warmth and feel and other styles. Milling is particularly suitable for woollen fabrics and other products. Milling of the woven fabric is performed on a cylinder-type tumbling machine, and the reduction of the Knitted Fabric can be performed in a rotary drum or a washing machine.

11. Raising (raiSing)

Friction finishing is the process of picking up the fibers of the fabric with dense needles or thorns to form a layer of fluff, also known as brushing finishing. Mainly used for woollen fabrics, acrylic fabrics and cotton fabrics. The fabric fluffs in a dry state, fluff is fluffy and short. In the wet state, the surface fibers are easy to fluff because of the large fiber elongation. Therefore, after the hair fabric is wet and fluffed, a long pile can be obtained, and when the fabric is immersed, fluffy long pile hair can be obtained. However, dry fabrics should only be used for cotton fabrics. The fuzz layer after fluffing can improve the warmth of the fabric, cover the texture, improve the appearance, and make the hand full and soft. The combination of fluffing and shearing can improve the finishing effect of the fabric.

12. Shearing

Shearing is a process that uses a shearing machine to cut unwanted hair on the fabric surface. The purpose is to make the texture of the fabric clear, the surface smooth, or to make fluff and pile fabric fluff and suede neat. General wool fabrics, velvets, artificial fur and other products are subject to a shearing process, but their respective requirements are different. For example, worsted wool fabrics require that the surface fluff be cut off so that the surface is smooth and the texture is clear. The woollen fabrics require shearing and the texture is soft and supple. In particular, the fuzz on the surface of the fabric after linting or tumbling must be evened out and kept to a certain length to make the appearance flat. In order to improve the shearing effect, the shearing and brushing process can be matched

13 , decatizing blowing

Steaming finishing is the use of wool fibers in the hot and humid conditions of the stereotypes, through steaming to stabilize the shape of the wool fabric, feel, improve the gloss of the process. The principle of steaming and boiling it is basically the same, but the treatment is different. Steaming is mainly used for wool fabrics and blended products, but also for silk, viscose and other fabrics. After steaming, the finished fabric has a stable shape, smooth surface, natural luster and a soft and elastic feel.

14 , pressure (pressing)

Pressure finishing is a process in which the mechanical pressure is applied under the hot and humid conditions to smooth the wool fabric, enhance the gloss, and improve the hand feel, and is similar to the calender finishing of other fabrics. But pressure is often used in the finishing of worsted wool fabrics. There are two ways to press it: rotary pressure (also called hot or hot pressure) and paper pressure (also called voltage). The former irons the fabric by squeezing and rubbing, and imparts gloss. The fabric has small elongation and high productivity, but the effect is not long-lasting. And because the treated fabric has a strong luster, it is often carried out before steaming it. The latter are mostly used in the final processing of fine textiles, especially thin textiles. During finishing, the wool fabrics are layered and folded, and the hard light board and the electric board are sandwiched between the board and then pressurised by a hydraulic press under certain conditions. After the voltage, the wool fabric has smooth surface, soft gloss, soft and lubricious touch, and temporary effect, but its equipment is huge and its productivity is low.

15 , antifelt (antifelting)

Prevents or reduces the shrinkage of the wool fabric during washing and taking, so that the dimensional stability of the garment is called anti-shrink finishing. The felting of wool fabrics is due to the large extensibility and resilience of the fleece scales in the wet state, so that the felt-like shrinkage easily occurs after washing and pressing. Therefore, the principle of anti-shrinking finishing is to use chemical methods to partially etch the scales, change the surface state, or cover the surface with a layer of polymer, and make the fiber intertwined, thereby removing the foundation for the generation of felt. Anti-shrink finishing fabrics can reach the required level, called super washable wool fabrics.

16 、Uquid ammonia finishing

The process of treating cotton fabrics with liquid ammonia completely eliminates the internal stress in the fibers, and the process of improving gloss and taking performance is called liquid ammonia finishing. It can reduce the fabric shrinkage, increase the resilience, breaking strength and hygroscopicity, feel flexible, good elasticity, strong wrinkle resistance, dimensional stability, while laying the foundation for washing and dressing and shrink-proof finishing, is to improve the cotton fabric taking performance (especially to improve the shrinkage of the fabric) is an important treatment.

17 , wrinklng

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