China International Fashion Week (2019/20 Fall/Winter Collection) will be held in Beijing from March 25th to 31st, and the 80th big show countdown is about to begin.
Among the many released brands, Shifan has created a unique way to bring Chinese traditional costumes - cheongsam to the T-station, and the cheongsam stand-up collar combined with fur design will definitely attract your attention!
"Light of the City" × Shenzhen | Shifan Zhang Quan
Special release
March 28, 19:30
751D·PARK Central Hall
　　 Zhang Quan
Zhang Quan explained in detail the Shimao brand's "previous life and life" and the highlights of the upcoming big show.
Shifan
Every designer who creates a brand has a story of his own behind, as does Shifan Zhang Quan. When asked about the reasons for becoming a designer, Zhang Quan’s answer was very simple: “I am a rural person. When I was a child, my clothes were left by my big brothers. At that time, I wanted to wear new clothes every day. I just had a classmate who was doing clothing in Shenzhen. I went to him and chose a costume design halfway ."
Shifan brand understands the quality of private custom-made clothing and always adheres to national brand positioning and designer original style.
Zhang Quan, the half-way designer, has his own professional vision for the apparel industry. He said: "5 to 10 years ago, it was the introduction period of China's custom brand. Now it has grown to a rising period, and consumers are customizing. The understanding has gradually increased, but the overall frequency of consumption is not high, let alone the market share. The domestic customized customization is still immature, and the business model is still in the initial stage of development."
At present, the Volkswagen fast-selling clothing brand can no longer meet the pursuit of consumers' unconventionality. Their popularity of custom clothing is rising, and customization has begun to extend from high-end to low-end. The status quo of the market gave Zhang Quan self-confidence and made him confident in the domestic customized market. “Customization represents the highest level in the industry, so the world must seize this opportunity and take a customized route.â€
Shifan's customer base is mainly concentrated in the business field and mature women with financial freedom. At present, Shifan has established a complete after-sales service system, and through regular return visits, relying on big data technology to provide customers with better and more intimate services.
Chinese Women's National Costume---Cheongsam
Some people say that Chinese people should understand the history of cheongsam and socialites. It is a story of time. The memory of the Republic of China has become clear in the smile of the cheongsam woman. It has also been said that a woman should have one or a few cheongsams, elegant and eternal, swaying and swaying, and appealing to the minds of the years.
In the 1930s and 1940s, the "new cheongsam" was popular in Shanghai, the Song Dynasty three sisters, Tang Yan, Lu Xiaoman and other socialites, as well as many movie stars have a special liking for cheongsam, and popular women began to follow suit.
Song Meiling's "Time" magazine cover character
Tang Wei, Lu Xiaoman
Zhang Ailing, Hu Die
The protagonist of Shifan’s release is the cheongsam known as the Chinese quintessence. The brand draws inspiration from Tang Fengya’s rhyme . The design contains the grand beauty, elegant simplicity and rigorous symmetry of Chinese classical art, which retains the deep accumulation of the oriental people. The sense of belonging to history and culture; there is also a sense of calmness and tranquility in the city, and the layers are distinct, exuding the graceful and graceful style of the people, showing elegance and grandeur.
Among all the costumes in China, cheongsam is not only the most difficult to control, but also uses many traditional Chinese techniques in customization . The good cheongsam tailoring must be accurate, and the wide and thin grasp must be appropriate to achieve the anti-sculpture effect of the human body. A good cheongsam is not only a costume, but also a beautiful piece of art.
During the interview, Zhang Quan briefed us on the structure of some traditional cheongsams and the craftsmanship involved in the customization.
"The most characteristic element of the cheongsam spirit is the silhouette, the clothes are attached to the genus, the aptitude is waisted, and the soft curves of the silhouette show that after more than half a century of evolution, it has become the most stable element of cheongsam." explain.
The details of collar, cymbals, and cymbals are also very characteristic cheongsam elements.
The common eight types of collars are general collar, penguin collar, phoenix collar, collarless, dripping collar, bamboo leaf collar, horseshoe collar and so on. When choosing cheongsam, the collar type can also be used as a reference factor. Women with short necks are not suitable for high-necked collars. For women with longer necks, there is no limit, and the scope of choice is much wider.
襟有襟,如æ„襟,çµç¶è¥Ÿ,斜襟, åŒè¥Ÿ ; round cheongsam dress--the line is smooth and smooth; straight cheongsam dress - full-bodied, round-faced women fit this style, can make The figure looks slender; the party cheongsam dress - the bold reform of the crotch, suitable for different face shapes.
Cheongsam opening is divided into: high slit, low split.
In the past, the cheongsam was not open. As the cheongsam sleeves shortened, the left side of the cheongsam also opened low. Later, the cockroaches opened higher and higher, gradually higher and the knees, up to the thighs.
Regarding the craftsmanship involved in cheongsam customization , Zhang Quan also briefly introduced three kinds of techniques : cheongsam plaque, tie-making process, inlay production process and edging method.
Cheongsam big plaque stick tie making process
Inlay manufacturing process
Flange production method
Traditional cheongsam customization is a technical activity, and there are many craft techniques involved. Zhang Quan said: "Chinese traditional skills are profound and profound. I have been studying since I entered the present, but I still feel that I have too many things to learn. â€
Shifan has been on the road...
"Light of the City" × Shenzhen Fashion City Star Building Program
Q. What kind of city is Shenzhen? For designers, what aspects of Shenzhen are more attractive?
Zhang Quan : “Shenzhen is a very dynamic and competitive city. As the design capital of China, Shenzhen is active in a large number of design elites. At the same time, it brings us many favorable environmental factors, just like cultivating plants, cities. The soil gives young designers a fertile nutrient that allows young designers to thrive here."
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