Givenchy Paris Fashion Week: Chase body exile

On Sunday, the Givenchy press conference presented by Clare Waight Keller reconsolidates her field of work and regains the classic elements of this fashion house: Hubert de Givenchy, Gary O. Hepburn in Paris, harmonizes decadent and decadent Berlin - separated by the Berlin Wall, the pursuit of physical exile is very much the same, "the air is full of filth and danger" (the show notes on the seat reinforces this emotion). Indeed, this is like the famous album Lou Reed named after Berlin. Speaking of this, there was a roar of trains in the show's soundtrack, and he did not know where to send the passengers.

Roughness and luxury, east and west... This is the stark contrast of Berlin as portrayed by Waight Keller. Her open dialogue between the two is full of provocation. The conference opened with a rich, touching fur. The designer pointed out that "richness is true, but fur is false. We are juxtaposed against this opposition." Leather is not a fake, and after a special treatment, it gives off a slight shine. Covered under the fur and leather is a sharp cut or transparent lace, deliberately brought out a bit tease. The prudent charm of the bourgeoisie is not the first time this season has been distributed.

In the context of “Lost Berlin,” the obvious reference point is the film by Rainer Werner Fassbinder. I'll take the initiative to bite this bait. Waight Keller will not, but she is still attracted by the interaction between barbarism and glamour. Leather and lace. If she calls for the night with dark and monotonous wilderness, this season's collection is still dazzling in the Jacquard jet sequins, the sparkling finish of the final cocktail dress, and the pure white coat in the Parker.

Waight Keller's debut between Givenchy and the second release of the season, as well as her first high-end uniform series. The highlight is its obvious advantages. The men's and women's wear that she released on Sunday all reflect the same sharp eyes. This is where the change is all. Although not to say that there are no surprises (what's going on in purple leather pleating), you can say that this season is a huge leap forward. The point is that Waight Keller quickly reshaped Givenchy.

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