After the New Year, London, England, fired the first shot of menswear week, although various problems have come one after another - shorter schedules, big designers have left, boring and boring complaints about one after another conference and static display, but this It does not mean all. In the fashion industry, new changes are happening quietly. More and more Chinese fashion designers are being watched by the international arena. This season, three Chinese designer brands in London Menswear Week have entered the official calendar of London Menswear Week. They were Xander Zhou, Zhou Jun, and PRONOUNCE who participated in the publication of the work, as well as Liu Danxia and DANSHAN who participated in the official activities. They represented this young fashion force, and the speed of the rapid development was not to be underestimated.
Xander Zhou
As a regular guest of London Menswear Week, since the first quarter of London Menswear Week 2012, the designer Zhou Xiangyu's name appeared on the official release list. Zhou Xiangyu graduated from the Den Haag Clothing Institute in the Netherlands. After returning home, he founded Xander Zhou, a personal brand, and several subsidiary lines. The theme of its 2013 Spring-Summer series is “Fleur-de-lism†(Lily pattern of the chapter pattern), the series of works from silk fabrics to a wide outline of the mix to show the beautiful lilies blooming.
Xander Zhou Designer Zhou Xiangyu
At 17:00 on January 6th, Xander Zhou released the 2018 autumn and winter series at London Menswear Week. Based on the "strictly uniformized" of the previous quarter, this season added more Chinese elements such as Tang suits, calligraphy, folding fans, buckets, yin and yang, and dragon totems. This season presents a collection of tourist-friendly Chinese elements that are extremely confident, bold, stylish and at the forefront of the era. Seemingly out of tune with the style of street cool boys, paranoid and absurd. The phrase "child not talking, strange power" was mirrored and written throughout the series, representing weirdness, bravery, rebellion, ghosts and gods. It was the best reflection of his creative thinking today.
Designers say that there is not much difference between the future and the past. The best way to test the time is to deconstruct the nostalgic feelings. Zhou Xiangyu may be a fan of Chow Yun Fat. He seems to have referenced Chow Yun Fat's career. The dragon-shaped tiger-shaped suit jacket and fur cape that opened in the dragon were quite in the shadow of Xu Wenqiang in the “Beach on the Beachâ€. They swam and waved and dominated the banks of the Huangpu River.
Xander Zhou 2018 Fall Winter Collection
In June last year, Xander Zhou also released its 2018 spring/summer series “HYPEBEAST†in London Menswear Week, and proposed the concept of “Supernatural, EXTRATERRESTRIAL & CO.,†the superpower company. Techno music rumbling and “recall†humans and humans. Intelligence and variants gathered in the office to stage a big gathering of supernatural companies. Xander Zhou characterizes the models and creates a picture of a company uniform—white collar, security guard, waiters, doctors, machinists, and so on. The first line of headsets is pulled out of the deconstructed shirt. The role-playing played a role - they are all Xander Zhou’s on-duty "agents."
Xander Zhou 2018 Spring Summer Collection
Because of this fascination with the characterization, in the 2018AW that was just released, Xander Zhou has also added new villains while retaining many previous roles. (You can use the feet of those monsters that appear from time to time. A glimpse of the dragon-shaped accessories. Zhou Xiangyu does not think that his series is limited to reference to Chow Yun-fat's film and television works, and more is the work of Asian magical themes. These characters are no longer satisfied to stay in the supernatural company headquarters, but go out and perform special tasks.
Xander Zhou 2018 autumn and winter series details
Zhou Xiangyu's autumn/winter 2017 series travelled in pan-Asian culture. The new collection featured tunic suits, kimono sleeves, and the Shande team (designers imagining gangs based on the Japanese Yamaguchi team).
Zhou Xiangyu 2017 autumn and winter series
Zhou Junhe and Li Yushan (PRONOUNCE)
PRONOUNCE was co-founded by designers Zhou Jun and Li Yushan in early 2016. Its strength is undoubtedly that they won the GQ presents at the Shanghai Fashion Week with the “Slow down†series and won unanimous favor. Compared with other designers' styles, the special nature of PRONOUNCE's two designers is reflected in the exploration of the nature of "clothing."
Co-Founder of PRONOUNCE Li Yushan (left) and Zhou Jun (right)
â–º At the end of 2015, Li Yushan and Zhou Jun decided to co-found a men's wear brand almost a year after their work.
â–º In early 2016, they registered the PRONOUNCE brand in Italy and established studios in Shanghai and Milan.
► In October 2016, PRONOUNCE landed at Shanghai Fashion Week LABELHOOD “GQ China Men's Wear Day†and was selected as the “GQ Presents†project. The show was held in London in the spring, summer, and autumn and winter seasons of 18th and 18th, and was selected by Shanghai Fashion Week as “ Cutting-edge power award."
► In January 2017, PRONOUNCE won the “The Latest Fashion Buzz†award (the jury comprised high-caliber magazines from the GQ Itaia, Vanity Fair, and industry experts such as Riccardo Grassi) to showcase the latest works of the 2017 autumn/winter collection in Florence and be highly promoted. The agency Creative and More has a one-year training guide.
â–º In June 2017, PRONOUNCE made its first appearance on the stage of 2018 Men's Wear Week in London.
â–º In July 2017, PRONOUNCE co-founder Li Yushan was listed on Forbes China's "30under 30" elite list.
â–º In January 2018, PRONOUNCE showed its 2018 autumn/winter collection at London Menswear Week.
“Our design is more practical and not too dramatic.†Li Yushan said that PRONOUNCE2017 spring and summer series show almost no professional models, mostly designer friends, allowing the audience to more intuitively see the brand integration There are many possibilities for people's daily life.
It is commendable that the exhibitors who are wearing PRONOUNCE are all in a state that fits in with the tone of the brand. The seemingly relaxed and relaxed sports style is given an exquisite sense of randomness due to the change of fine craftsmanship and details. Between the vulgar to create a clever point of integration.
The large turnover containers in the show floor were stacked like art installations. Painted colored benches and tapes wrapped around model shoes created an artistic atmosphere with a collision effect. They managed to make sure that they did not seize the limelight by grabbing clothes. A bit humorous.
PRONOUNCE Releases 2017 Spring/Summer Collection on "GQ China Men's Wear Day"
Previously, in the 2017 Shanghai Fashion Week fashion awards selection, PRONOUNCE also won the Spring and Summer Shanghai Fashion Week Power Award for the new season, with a promising new generation of brand attitude, injecting inspiration for the fashion industry.
PRONOUNCE stands for fashion night to receive the 2017 Spring and Summer Shanghai Fashion Week Power Award
PRONOUNCE Shows 2017 Fall/Winter Collection at Pitti Uomo
Jason (Li Yushan) said that he had not been selected to GQ Presents. Their debut of the brand took place at the first Shanghai Fashion Week where GQ Presents and Labelhood collaborated. Then they were selected. Because it was the first show, there was not much concern about whether or not it was possible to go to London. It was more of a nervous design, but what happened next was like an uninteresting experience in the fleeting years. Say you are very lucky.
PRONOUNCE2018 London Menswear Week in Spring and Summer was inspired by the photography of artist Sugimoto Boss who was good at playing with light, “Deep Sky†by James Turrell and “Fase†by Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker. This is an East-style philosophy. It is not necessary to make loud and colorful Chinese-language chapters. Instead, it glides through the gaps in light and shadow to see the kind of subtle beauty.
PRONOUNCE2018 Spring and Summer London Week Released
“Were it not for shadows there would be no beauty.â€
From last season's show finale to Fashion Performance this season, PRONOUNCE is constantly looking for ways to infiltrate fashion concepts at Shanghai Fashion Week LABELHOOD. Entering the space enveloped in the hazy purple haze, models wearing the 18SS series set aside in industrial carts. The research direction of the PRONOUNCE 2018 Spring-Summer series comes from the reflection of shadows by Junichiro Junichiro, and James Turrell's "Deep Sky, 1984" printing series. The designer chose to use purple, non-cool and warm colors as a medium for shadows to create a world of light and shadow. Continuing the study of pragmatism, this season brings poetic tools.
2018SS is also PRONOUNCE's first men's collection on the official schedule of London Fashion Week with the support of GQ China.
PRONOUNCE2018 Spring/Summer Shanghai Fashion Week Works Released
Not too long ago, on the last day of the Men's Wear Week of 2018 on January 8th, January 8, PRONOUNCE released the latest season's work. This season, through the tailoring, fabrics, details, functions, etc. to fully interpret the essence of men's clothing, to create a wide-view male wardrobe. The shape of the Chinese style buckle is combined with the symbol of “∞†that symbolizes contemporaryity. At the same time, the brand continues its exploration of innovative materials, presenting a combination of contemporary design and practical functionality.
PRONOUNCE2018 autumn and winter works
The current China, the men's clothing market in the apparel industry accounted for an increasing proportion, "what does Chinese men wear?" Has become a topic more interested in the media to explore. China’s men’s style is being formed with the fastest speed and more open attitude. For the men’s wear brands, the well-established big brands are facing a series of brand upgrades. Therefore, there is no shortage of men’s designer brands that are an excellent entry into the industry. opportunity. The selection of overseas menswear week may be an amplification of the effect of Chinese men's wear on their own brand, or proof of the market. The industry will always require the nourishment of fresh blood, an outstanding and original breakthrough, and its name will be remembered no matter what form it is presented.
The birth and change of things must have its own signs. Men's Wear Week has its own grasp of the subdivision of consumer groups, and the market tends to be more rational. It may be the development of the industry. The law of invariability, looking forward to China's original designer's plump benefits and cutting edge, is also being encouraged by more and more cutting-edge designers.
This article partially intercepted BoF Fashion Business Review
Image from the network and brand official release