What is “light luxury”? Historical changes in the development of luxury goods

There is still no completely authoritative definition of what luxury goods are.

Wal-Mart Razler defines luxury in "Luxury brings wealth": "Luxury is a lifestyle that is considered to be a luxury in whole or in part by its own society, mostly determined by products or services." The common cognition is: luxury goods, a kind of consumer goods that are unique, scarce and rare, beyond the needs of people's survival and development, also known as non-living necessities.

If we look at these words, luxury can be interpreted as having a unique design that includes the particularity of creativity and marketing; scarce materials are an important material basis; craftsmanship is different from the key to conventional goods, to So far, the most advanced handicrafts are also replaceable with inorganic ones; of course, the most important thing is the enduring time in the long river, including its material quality and design thinking.

Luxury goods

Not a brand is born, the luxury industry means suddenly formed. Brand is a signal, but the formation of the luxury goods industry has a profound foundation for humanities and business development. Why are most luxury goods born in Italy and France? We return to the beginning of the origin to see the true meaning of luxury goods.

轻奢,奢侈品历史变迁

Renaissance primer

In the history of Western culture, the Renaissance that took place after the 14th century has an extraordinary and profound influence. It can even be considered that it largely determines the style of this era. The artistic style of this period still has far-reaching influence on people's aesthetics. As far as luxury goods are concerned, the shadows of the Renaissance can still be seen in the works of many famous costume masters.

As a great revolution in the history of human civilization, the Renaissance advocated humanism for a long time and a new influence on culture, art, science and politics. This is the humanity and economic foundation for high-end fashion products.

The developed textile industry is the technical foundation

Italy's handicraft industry, which is dominated by the textile industry, has always been a global leader, making Italy a technological foundation for becoming a luxury center. In the Italian textile industry, the textile industry in Florence began to take shape in the 12th century and established a wool processing industry guild. At that time, Italian merchants bought wool products from Western Europe and shipped them back to Italy. They used the locally reformed fine craftsmanship to make wool and then sold them back to Western Europe, which became the best seller at that time.

At the same time, Italian leather products have a long history, and leather products are an important category of luxury goods.

The powerful class has a profound influence

The impact comes from two aspects. First of all, there have been several kings and queens in France who are obsessed with clothes and accessories. For example, Louis XIV spends half a day every day to make people's hairstyles, beards and clothes. For those who request to meet, regardless of the age of men and women, regardless of the health of the disease, they are required to wear according to etiquette. They are politicized by their own privilege and even dress.

This affects the entire French demand for dressing and the improvement of taste, which intensifies the concept of fashion. The pursuit of high quality for the assembly comes from the court, and many of the later luxury goods that are traded in the masses are in fact derived from the demand of the court.

Secondly, at the time of Louis XVI, the incumbent Finance Minister Jean-Baptiste Colbert integrated the industrial ecological chain. His forward-looking vision hopes to make France a world luxury center. He invited the best textile craftsmen from Italy to come to France for training; in the Roman era, the silk trade was quite prosperous as a silk base; the textile industry association was established to regulate product quality and operational norms; and the law required people to buy France. Products.

The first department store appeared

In 1838, the world's first department store, Le Bon Marche, was established, which played a vital role in the development of the fashion industry.

In fact, this also means that the commercial system has begun to be established, the department store has brought more comprehensive product collection, and at the same time, the real clear price has begun. The former “court luxury” focused on the fineness of raw materials and craftsmanship. In the new business system of department stores, coupled with the concept of marketing, another meaning of selling luxury goods is “fashion”. In such a new public space, different people, or people of different strata, gather together to promote the widespread spread of fashion thinking. Shopping has become an experience that people enjoy.

Initial change in consumer attitude

At that time, the European aristocratic class attached great importance to the etiquette culture of different occasions. Afternoon tea, hunting, listening to opera, attending a dance or dinner, and different dress etiquettes on different occasions, Europeans generally formed a habit of paying attention to dress etiquette.

In addition to the actual utility of physical goods, the more important significance of the European aristocracy at that time was to be a symbol of social relations. Consumption has been liberated from the functionality of things, becoming the self-realization of consumers at the time.

LV founder Louis Vuitton's first job is to pick up luggage for celebrities and nobles, the ladies' costumes of that era, mostly large tutu, in order to solve the large clothing does not cause pleating and carrying light The problem was that the LV suitcase was designed. It can be seen that the luxury goods served the elites in the early days. He saw the consumption power of the aristocratic class very early, introduced large suitcases in time, made with the finest raw materials, and decorated the accessories with precious materials. The super high quality from the outside to the practical and beautiful has formed an excellent reputation for him.

In the book "Louis Vuitton: The Birth of Modern Luxury", you can see the temperament and philosophy of being at the top of the luxury brand. In the simplest case, the concept of LV when designing the box at that time is very worth learning. In addition to being light and beautiful, he thinks that the most important thing is to let the box serve the goods, not the goods service box. This is probably the concept that is now easily reversed by the end.

The place where LV is so powerful is the vision of business management. In addition to the information we are familiar with - in 1988, the formation of the famous brand assembly LVMH group development, their "presence flower LOGO" was born in the second generation of the LV family, and made a lot of literature research at the beginning of the design. jobs. They were inspired by the family shields of Japan and Europe, and found that this pattern is recognizable by almost all cultures of the whole world and the whole nation, and has no derogatory meaning in any culture. The global popularity and recognition of “Old Flowers” ​​is an important reason for becoming a classic LOGO. We can see from here that LV has already had an advanced awareness of globalization as early as that.

Although Louis Vuitton is constantly seeking new things in the contemporary era, its history is a typical history of luxury goods development.

How did the contemporary "light luxury" come about?

Erwan Rambourg, Managing Director of HSBC, is the chief analyst of the luxury goods industry. In his book The Bling Dynasty, he answered many questions about the relationship between luxury goods and China. He also painted a pyramid map of luxury brands, explaining the positioning of luxury goods, it can be seen that luxury is the lower edge of luxury goods in terms of price and grade.

Fashion professionals believe that “light luxury” was originally a false proposition, and the business model of using low-cost for the market conflicted with the inherent attributes of luxury goods, but its emergence is undoubtedly a revolution in the market. The ones that can become the leaders in this revolution are the United States and China. Among them, the United States is the original market, creating the concept of “light luxury”. Although there is no royal and aristocratic history in the United States, the local market is huge, and luxury is only a small part of the huge market that is being adapted to the economic development. At the same time, US department stores and business systems are very mature, the United States can provide the basis for brand expansion and terminal sales, while China is a potential market for consumption.

When we describe "light luxury", the habit of using "between ..." can be understood as a modest characteristic. It can be used both as a daily consumption of the affluent class and as a personality of the middle class; the quality and craftsmanship of the product does not deviate from the high requirements of luxury goods, but also draws on the concept of being close to the people and comfortable.

In today's fashion market, consumer classification and demand, product categories and prices are all refined, which is an objective condition for the birth of luxury. In addition to the changes in the social economy and consumer attitudes that are often talked about, one reason that cannot be ignored is the new possibilities brought by digitalization for the development of luxury brands. Light luxury brands focus on online and offline marketing models. On the one hand, light luxury brands need to establish their pure blood as luxury goods with high-end image. In addition to the products themselves, they also move closer to traditional luxury goods in store creation and service; On the other hand, through the social media to open up the consumer market, create new consumption space and habits.

This kind of moderation is not only the objective development of the market, but also the discovery and expansion of the new field by the practitioners of the fashion industry.

Coach originated in the small family workshop in Manhattan in 1941 and was also started by making leather goods. Interestingly, Coach's original inspiration came from softball gloves, and founder Miles Kahn wanted to use the softer and softer features of softball gloves to produce practical leather goods. In the later period, it became a favorite product of American consumers because of its practical and aesthetic characteristics.

Known as Coach's second founder, Frank Ford led Coach to create a “out of reach” luxury handbag and accessories market in North America. He invited designer Reed Krakow to inject the famous 3F new product concept (Fun, Feminine, Fashionable) into the core of the Coach brand. Reed Krakow's step-by-step replacement of leather with nylon fabrics has introduced lightweight, brightly colored bags to the market. Handbags made of woven fabrics are light and fashionable, which also saves costs and improves company profits.

Coach's position as a "luxury" is somewhat ingenious, eliminating distance in price, and maintaining high-end in the brand image at the same time, driving light luxury into people's lives. The historical background and humanistic environment of the United States have created Americans' different consumption views on luxury goods. They have a special understanding and understanding of luxury brands. They are full of open, inclusive and diverse New York spirit, which is why Coach has grown.

The meaning of "luxury"

The birth of light luxury itself comes mainly from the lower edge of luxury goods development, but the focus is still on “luxury”. In July last year, Michael Kors, another brand that was regarded as a luxury representative, announced the acquisition of Jimmy Choo, a British luxury footwear brand, which indicates that the transformation of the light luxury industry business model still needs to re-emphasize the “luxury” part. Consumers will choose traditional luxury brands that perform better based on products and services, and value the price/performance ratio of products and services. For the future of brands with light luxury labels, product upgrades are imperative.

Although, as consumer demand changes, diversification and personalization are becoming the transformation direction of luxury goods. However, in order to show the higher value it should have, the energy of the luxury brand will be transferred back to its customized business, and even the customization will be industrialized and scaled. Just like LV has insisted on more than 100 years of custom business, many luxury brands are re-customizing, and even some brands currently have 70% of sales from custom.

The range of radiation of luxury goods is becoming wider and wider. It is no longer exclusive to a small group of people in the concentric circle. In addition to the changes in social and economic development, perhaps the definition of “luxury” itself is changing. It seems to have more symbolic meaning. It represents the awakening of most people's lives. When we talked about luxury, we must refer to high-end leather bags and luxury jewellery. In today's society, we are attracted by high-quality content and experience. It is the senses of the senses, such as sight and hearing. So can these be understood as new technologies brought to us? New luxury?

Looking at the history of development, we know that luxury goods are spiritually closest to the creation of art, which causes a premium in its products, and when we pay for this premium, we pay more than the value of the material itself. Although luxury goods are created by human beings, they are a blessing in this creation. They protect the refinement of culture, depicting beautiful language, and embracing diverse and connotative ideas.

The anthropologist Claude Levi-Strauss wrote this passage: "With thousands of years of standard, human enthusiasm is confusing. The long flow of time has not increased or decreased the love that humans feel. Hate, their input, struggle and desire. Whether in the past or today, human beings are always the same. Eliminating the history of ten or twenty centuries arbitrarily will not affect our understanding of human nature. The only irreparable loss is these. The art that was born in the century. Human beings are different because they only have their works. Only art can prove that in the torrent of time, there are some things happening in humans."

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